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DECKING SPANS
To ensured deck is safe and secure, it
needs to be designed to withstand loads. Check your local building
departments codes and requirements. If your deck frame is weak and not
up to standard it could cause a collaspe when under loads such as snow,
or a group of people for a barbecue. So plan correctly. So, what is
the best way to determine your structural load for your deck frame? It
is arrived at by combining the type of lumber your frame is built with ,
the size, and span or distance between the joists, deckboards, or beams.
Pay attention to how high your deck is
going to be, and if it will be higher than 8 feet, it may require a
heavier load. It would be good to consult your local building
department, since this may require special engineering and
reinforcement.
DECK SPANS EXPLAINED
Have enclosed standard tables of deck
spacing and wood strengths.
Warranty and Care
CARE & CLEANING
All exterior building materials require
cleaning. Periodic cleaning of Trex® Decking & Railing will maintain the
beauty of a Trex deck.
Problem Solution
Dirt and Debris
* Clean deck to remove dirt and debris.
Soap, hot water and a stiff bristle brush are all that is needed.
Chalk Markings
* All colored chalk lines are permanent
except white. We suggest using white chalk or baby powder. Scrubbing the
area with hot soapy water with bleach may dislodge some of the chalk.
Visible Mill Markings
* The mill markings on the side of Trex
decking boards are required by building codes. With careful
installation, most mill markings can be hidden. Visible mill markings
can be lightened with acetone.
Water Spots/Leaf Staining/Wood Tannins
* Tannin leaching occurs in Trex and all
wood based products naturally. Allow for at least 12 weeks of normal
weathering. This process may be hastened through the use of a product
containing oxalic or phosphoric acid.
Pigment Staining
* During the weathering process, a small
amount of surface pigmentation may wash off of the Trex surface, which
may discolor neighboring surfaces. Remove with common rust cleaner.
Ice and Snow
* Calcium chloride or rock salt, available
in many home centers, will melt ice on Trex decking. Rinse off when
first practical.
Rust Stains, Ground-In Dirt and Grime
* Use a cleaning product containing oxalic
or phosphoric acid base to lighten or remove the rust or dirt. Product
may need to sit on stain 10-15 minutes.
Oil and Grease Stains
* Scrub in a household-degreasing agent as
soon as the stain occurs. Rinse with hot water. For more severe stains
call 1-800-BUY-TREX.
Berries and Wine Stains
* Mix bleach into hot water according to
the bleach-packaging label. Scrub the stain lightly and rinse
thoroughly. The stain may not disappear entirely.
Ink Stains
* Inks may be permanent. However, the stain
may be lightened by scrubbing with hot soapy water. Rinse thoroughly.
Mold
* Use conventional deck washes or cleaners
that contain sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and detergent (refer to Mold
Technical Bulletin).
* Treat with PSC Composite DeckAfterKlean (www.psc-solutions.com)
or Anti-Growth (www.anti-growth.com) to delay regrowth.
* Periodic cleaning of your deck, even if
it appears clean, is important to prevent the build-up of pollen/debris
that can cause mold.
Pressure Washer
* Trex does not recommend the use of a
pressure washer. The use of a pressure washer with a greater than 1,500
PSI and/or applied closer than 10" from the deck surface could damage
the decking surface and result in a loss of warranty coverage.
Sanding
* Trex does not recommend sanding. Sanding
will change the appearance of the surface of Trex material.
Available at thousands of lumberyards nationwide
X X
My name is Mike Danzilio and I love decks, I wrote
this article about 5 years ago and revise it every year. After 25 years
of and taking down older decks and building new ones, I have observed
almost every deck product and method used to construct decks.
I will rate these decking products using
a scale from 1 to 10: 1 being the lowest and 10 being the highest. The
factors I’ve included are a,The cost of the decking, railing and trim.
b, The required maintenance. c,The durability. d, It's warranty. e, The
product integrity. f, The ability to have the entire deck built out of
the same material (all the parts that are visible) and g, The overall
look of the deck.
As a deck distributor, builder and retailer, I
offer the public the best products at the best price. This concept works
because I believe in the products that I sell. I don’t see any reason
to sell a product that has inherent problems just because it costs
less. The minor difference in price in relation to the benefits over
time is worth it.. For instance, when we purchase a car, we don’t buy
the cheapest thing on 4 wheels. We look at characteristics such as
safety, gas mileage, size, comfort and other amenities. We also
consider that we will only have this vehicle about 4 years. As an
independent plastic lumber retailer, I can sell virtually any decking
product that is currently available. All things considered, I have
chosen two products to carry, Trex and Tandeck. We sell Trex because it
is the #1 selling decking product on the market today. More Trex is sold
than all alternative decking products combined. Trex has great marketing
and brand recognition, it is the envy of all decking products. Having
said that, I feel that there is a product that offers greater value. The
Tandeck Decking System is head and shoulders above the rest.
If you are in the market for a deck or dock, look
at all of the alternatives and consider every thing. If you plan to
own your home for more three years or just want the best looking deck
for the best value, Tandeck has the right product for you. In recent
years home owners have come to realize that wood decks will be cheaper
than a wood composite or a plastic deck. If you just want a deck and
don’t care what it looks like than build a wood deck and let it crack,
check and enjoy the splinters. If you desire to have a beautiful deck
and don’t what to spend any money on it after it is done, then the
Tandeck product will be right for you. The maintenance of the wood deck
plus the initial cost will cost more than the difference between the up
front cost of the plastic deck.
The next question you will have is what to buy?
One way is to look at the history and the make-up of the product. If you
see a product like Correct Deck that has a “new and improved” product
every year than you know that they have had problems and they had to
change the way that they make it. I have seen products come and go, and
one thing that they have in common is that they use wood as a filler. We
know that a chain is as strong as its weakest link and the weak link in
all wood composites is the wood. Unfortunately some products use Poly
Vinyl Chloride (PVC), polystyrene (PS), or polypropylene (PP). These
plastics have some characteristics that are better than polyethylene
(PE), like stiffness, but they are all inferior to PE when we talk
colorfastness and stain resistance. We will speak about these individual
products separately further on in this paper. Polyethylene, the plastic
in Tandeck, is very durable, colorfast and resistant to chemical
staining. The price of PE has risen over recent years for a few reasons.
The price of oil and natural gas is one, and the most important is that
the world has realized that polyethylene is a better plastic to put
outside in the harsh elements. PVC and PS decking look great when they
are new, PS decking (EON) looks better than PE decking when it is new,
but in one year the PE decking will still look the same and the PVC and
PS decking will have lost that nice shine. I would think that you will
want your deck to look good in five years and not look good for just a
few months.
A six inch piece of most decking looks pretty good,
the finished product is what you want to see. At No Maintenance Decking
and Trim we have about 1500 square feet of decks set up outside, yes,
outside, so you can see what they look like. Every year we go to the
Deck Expo, we see beautiful decks done with great carpentry skills, the
problem is that if you put these decks outside for 6 months they will
look terrible! We welcome everyone to come and look at the set of stairs
we have set up at our outside show room and challenge them to show me a
better looking decking product.
DECK BUILDING PRODUCTS;
Wood
Until recently, wood has been the only product used
to build a deck. There are many types of wood and I will try to cover
most of them. The first decks that I encountered were originally built
out of whatever was left over from the frame of the house, usually
Douglas fir or spruce. These decks were stained or painted every 1 or 2
years and lasted anywhere from 7—15 years depending on the care given
and its proximity to the sun. Replacement decks were built to look
better and last longer. In the early eighties we began to use Pressure
Treated wood (wood treated with the chemical Copper Chromium Arsenic,
which was banned by the EPA for residential use in January, 2004). We
used it only on the frame and on high-end homes because it’s cost was
about three times that of conventional wood. As the cost came down and
more profiles were introduced, we began using it for the entire deck.
Pressure Treated Wood
Pressure Treated ACQ (Ammonia-cal Copper
Quaternary, CCA’S replacement) is acceptable if you are looking for
“just a deck”. If you don’t care what the deck looks like, this will
be the best deck for the money. Water will not damage it but if the
deck is not stained with a solid body stain, the sun will dry it out
until the areas exposed to the sun disintegrates. If you have a
pressure treated deck, you may be able to make it look better by
painting, pressure washing, sanding, caulking & staining with a solid
body stain. This will have to be done every year, but it will at least
look good. Building the frame out of Pressure Treated is fine, because
it is not in the direct sunlight. ACQ has great strength but only time
will tell for the ACQ treatment process.
Rating 3—If you plan to have the deck more than 3
years, buy a different product.
Cedar, Mahogany & Redwood
These decks always look great for the first couple
of months after they‘re built, but before long they will require some
kind of maintenance. Depending on how you take care of the deck and the
frequency of maintenance will directly relate to it’s looks and length
of life.
Cedar
Cedar is very soft and needs a lot of maintenance
but will look good for it’s short 6—10 year life. This product maybe
the most costly per year to own. Rating 3 — Looks good when it’s
installed but requires costly, annual maintenance. to extend the life of
the deck. If you have a cedar house, this deck will look great with a
clear cedar stain applied every year.
Redwood
These decks look great but will require a lot of
maintenance to keep it looking good. Redwood may have a longer life in
a dryer, western climate. I recently dismantled a 16-year old Redwood
deck. It was an ugly, dark brown but there was no rot at all! Yearly
staining with a solid body stain would have extended the life of this
deck at least another 10+ years. The owners had vinyl siding applied
to their house and opted for a deck that matched the house.
Rating 5 — If you can find an entire deck package
it will look good. Requires a lot of maintenance
Mahogany/Vertical Grain Fir
Deck grade mahogany from Malaysia and Indonesia or
vertical grain Fir from the United States is harder than Cedar and will
last up to 20 years. For homes that are in the woods or that have a
wood motif, this may be a great product for this look. Costly annual
maintenance is the down side.
Rating 5 —Lasts longer than Cedar.
Teak and other Hardwoods
There are many varieties of South American
Hardwood. Teak (Ipe, Ironwood ect....) being the best known for its
use with furniture and ship decks. These decks have a very high upfront
cost and require maintenance, they look great and last a very long
time. This decking may be reasonably priced (3 times that of treated).
I visited a distributor of alternative decking in Florida, I looked at
all of the different products that they had displayed outside. They had
a few types of hardwood displayed nicely in the sun, they were there for
2½ years and looked terrible, every product was cracked terribly. This
changed my outlook on hardwoods. Remember that it was in the hot Florida
sun, but the look was very bad, I was shocked! In the July/August 2005
Deck Builder Magazine I read an article about a marina in South
Carolina they were proudly showing off their dock, it looked great! The
further I read they said that they will be treating it with Penofin four
times a year. When the dock is new they will spend the money to keep it
looking good, but in a few years they will stop and the dock will start
to look bad. The finishing components (rails, fascia & trim) will be
very expensive.
Rating 8— Highest cost of all the deck products
tested and will need costly maintenance.
In the late eighties, we noticed that Pressure
Treated wood wasn’t susceptible to water damage but it would dry out and
crack leaving the worst splinters that any bare–footed person could
imagine. Pressure Treated wood, due to it’s wet treating process,
swelled up in both it’s length and width so it would shrink and crack
when it dried. In my legal contracts with homeowners, I flatly stated
that to keep the deck looking good, a solid body stain would need to be
applied. In ten short years we were back to the maintenance game! In
the early nineties, we were introduced to plastics used as decking. As
with any new product, people were interested and I built quite a few
decks with a composite called Trex. Soon after I was asked to be a
consultant to a new company on Long Island that sold 100% recycled
plastic decking. I could see that we had two similar yet very
different schools of thought:
Wood Composites
When wood breaks down after a few years, the
decking may become rough and flaky. The plastic will stay in place but
the wood will disintegrate. Wood is a cellulose material that absorbs
water & bacteria. The bacteria feeds on the cellulose to produce the
mold that you see on many of the popular composite deck products. The
wood doesn’t hold the color for very long, so fading is also an issue.
Another issue with wood composites that’s not widely known is that you
should not use these wood composites under 18” above the ground unless
your deck it is fully ventilated. You will find this written in very
small print in the way back of the product information guide. The wood
will absorb moisture and puff up like oatmeal and water. Other composite
deck products that possess different characteristics, will have their
own section later on.
Trex
Far and away, the best selling and most widely
known plastic decking product on the market. The marketing and brand
recognition is second to none. They have made slight improvements to the
core decking, along with adding a new high end line called Brizilia to
their 2 other price point decking line. The Trex railing looks good and
has great strength, their Trex Artisan line of railing is a winner that
was well thought out and tested before it was introduced in 2005. We
must remember that it is what it is. The Trex decking will fade, it will
stain, it will mold from the inside out because of the wood in the mix.
In some cases you may like the faded color, the Winchester Grey looks
good when it is new and after it fades, it still looks good . Here are
some of the issues that Trex has 1. Fades immediately and not
evenly. Areas exposed to the sun will fade at a different rate than
those in the shade. 2. Spills (juice, coffee, barbeque sauce, wine and
even pool water) will stain it permanently. If you have children, you
know how easily that will happen. Think of a light colored carpet
that you can never clean. 3. Trex now has a 25 year warranty. They
don’t warranty that it will look good though. 4. Trex is not made to
accommodate a hidden fastening system, it must be nailed or screwed
through the top of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening
of the decking but it’s a lot of work. 5. Mold and Mildew is a issue, I
have been told that it will come off, cleaners and your time is not
free. All in all, Trex has come a long way, some people like buying a
well known, well established product, this is fully understandable. I
like the new Trex, but after 25 years in the decking business I think
that the 36 cent extra a square foot difference in price as compared to
the Tandeck, the Tandeck is well worth paying the extra money. It takes
a lot to change my mind, Trex did it! The Artisan Railing is impressive,
not only in it’s design but it looks great also! Rating 7— it has come
a long way
Evergrain
This is a very high quality, composite decking.
People love the wood grain. If I was told that I had to pick a wood
composite deck for my house, This maybe the one. It is molded not
extruded, they must put a coating in the mold before pouring in the mix.
I have had some Evergrain on a display deck for a few years and it looks
very good
1. It is more stain resistant than other wood
composites.
2. Evergrain has a ½ X 11¾ wide skirt board to use
as trim. This is a big plus, the board can be used around the frame as
fascia, and for stair risers also to cover the stair stringers.
3. The wood grain may show wear in high traffic
areas after a few years.
4. They along with everyone else has raised their
very limited warranty to 25 years.
5. Evergrain must be nailed or screwed through the
top of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening of the
decking, but it’s a lot of work.
6. The railing system is not visually appealing.
Rating 7—It holds its color and is stain and mold
resistant.
Timbertech
They have a complete decking system which includes
railing, fascia for skirt board. This product fades faster than any
product I have ever seen. Their adds show a beautiful deck, this maybe
one of the most beautiful decks that I have ever seen. they have been
using this photo for 2 years I would love to see this deck now! I don’t
think that they would be so proud to show it.
1. Looks good when it is new.
2. Timbertech has a fair trim and rail system.
3. They along with everyone else has raised their
very limited warranty to 25 years. They do not warranty it to look good.
4. They are setting a record for denied warranty
claims.
Rating 5 —The fading is the down side.
Veranda
Veranda are composite decking sold at Home Depot.
They introduced a new wood grain finish. It is a good cheep wood
composite decking with only one color in stock. If you can’t tell the
difference in looks between Veranda and a premium deck board, than by
all means, buy it!
1. They only offer 8’, 12’ and 16’ lengths.
2. The 15-year warranty bothers me on a product
that costs this much.
3. Veranda must be nailed or screwed thru the top
of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening but it’s a lot
of work..
4. The railing system is not very good.
Rating 5—It costs less than all other wood
composites and it doesn’t splinter. Nexwood
This product is out of business, I have been
telling people for years that wood, plastic and the outdoors don’t mix.
Some companies can’t pay all of the warranty claims. While I was writing
the update of this paper, I did a Google search for Nexwood, It was
gone.
Rating 0
Cross Timbers Decking
Cross Timbers composite decking is another new
player in the composite decking industry. They have taken all of the
popularity of a wood grain finish (similar to Evergrain) and have added
a concealed fastening system while using a higher quality of plastic and
wood (polypropylene and oak).
1. Popular wood grain look.
2. Concealed fastening system yielding a clean
look.
3. Polypropylene is not color fast
4. Matching railing system.
5. Fades almost as fast as Timbertech
Rating 4 Fades and stains too easily.
EON
Called “ The BEST in Alternative Decking”
according to them. This product is made from polystyrene, it’s not a
good plastic for outdoor use. This is a great looking product when it is
new, their mahogany color decking is beautiful, but in a few months it
will look very dull.
1. Polystyrene is stiffer than polyethylene, but
is not color fast like polyethylene, it will fade quickly.
2. It has a hollow feel when you walk on it.
3. Very, expensive.
4. Stains very easily. On the eon web site they
have a laundry list of products not to clean it with. It also mentions
that pool chemicals will stain it.
Rating 5 Looks great when it is new, I would think
that you might like it to look good for a few years. Correct Deck
Correct Deck claims to be a premium, higher quality, longer lasting
decking. This product makes me shake my head and say why? They change
the formula every year and say it will not do that any more. In the
April 2005 Deck Builder magazine I read that they put some new additive
in it that will keep it from fading and molding. I went to a local
specialty decking retailer and bought a few 16’ pieces and screwed it
down. In 5 months it was a pale pink with green mold all over it. This
is the worst product I have ever seen!. Of course they have a new
formula for 2006, it looks terrible.
1. It has a 25-year warranty.
2. Concealed fastening system yielding a clean
look.
3. It’s finish is more of an orange peel than a
wood grain.
4. The color is not as consistent as Cross
Timbers, it looks as though The wood is not dyed the same color as the
plastic.
5. This is the worst product I have ever seen!.
Rating, -10 yes minus 10, if you get sucked into buying this product you
will buy anything! PVC Decking and Railings Procell Decking Procell
Decking is a new decking, it is made from poly vinyl chloride (PVC) and
flax which is some type of wheat. I would think that flax being similar
to wood will have similar properties.
1. The colors are very pale almost pre-faded.
2. Procell must be nailed or screwed through the
top of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening of the
decking, but it’s a lot of work.
3. Procell is just decking, nothing else. Their web
site calls it a decking system, just decking doesn’t make a decking
system.
4. Expensive it maybe 20% more than other premium
decking.
5. It’s too new to see what will happen in a few
years Rating, 6 if you like to look at screws it’s alright
Oasis Decking
Oasis Decking is a hollow PVC decking
1, Very Ugly
2, Not very durable, since it is hollow it isn’t
very strong. I know an installer that repairs this product, he states
that a chair leg will go right through it. To make matters worse, you
can’t take one or two pieces of decking off to make a repair, you must
start at the end and take them all off to get to the effected pieces
off. Rating, 3 its better than wood 100% Plastic Decking Products
Tandeck Decking System
This is the product that I feel is the best you can
get. There are a few minor players that make polyethylene products
besides Tangent Technologies of Aurora Illinois. Polyethylene (PE) To
show that it is so color fast that I have a piece of decking that was
made and installed in 1992, we looked at the deck in February 2006, this
deck looks so good that we are replacing it just to get that samples to
show the world that it hasn’t faded at all. I have a piece of this 13
year old decking is in my office and pieces of it will be at all
retailers that carry the product. The Tandeck decking system is so much
better than the rest! Check it out yourself! You will need to see a
completed deck of any of the composite or PVC decking systems and then
look at the Tandeck Decking system. It is obvious—whether you have
vinyl siding, brick or stucco. There is a color and style that fits.
For product information see tandeck.com.
1. Tandeck has seven non-fading colors.
Ultraviolet inhibitors are added to minimize fading which is less than1%
over 10 years.
2. Stain resistant—virtually any stain will come
off including permanent marker.
3. Not Slippery—The wood grain will grip your
shoe or bare feet. Great for pools.
4. Concealed fastening system—no ugly screws on
the top of the decking.
5. Matching rail system—Strong, great looking
rails that match the deck color.
6. A 50-year warranty
Rating 9 If there is a better product, I want to
see it.
No Maintenance Decks 2006
Timbertech is a monolithic
composite that is hollow, so its lighter than Trex. It is designed to
lock together with adjacent plank to accommodate the fasteners. The
composite material occasionally cracks along the interlock. Then you end
up with unsecured plank. Many times this is not evident until the
occurrence of high winds!
Timbertech has a new hollow plank that does not
interlock but stands alone. It is designed to be nailed or screwed from
the top just like wood. But I wouldn't trust any fasteners holding
through the 1/2-inch composite.
Louisiana-Pacific has a wood-plastic composite,
called WeatherBest.
The wood component is actually a wood flour -- wood
so finely ground it becomes a powder.
It's still 50-50 wood to plastic. It was designed
to overcome the problems with the other wood-plastic composites. In
doing so, they've introduced other problems:
One problem is the dimensionality -- it is only
1-inch thick. That just doesn't give a proper look to residential decks.
It looks undersized and, by inference, cheap.
A second problem, but more significant, is that
1-inch thick composite planking will warble in the sun from expansion.
Another is that it's surface is embossed with a
wood-grain pattern which was an attempt to make the plank look
realistic. To emphasize the wood-grain, the outer surface was made a
darker color than the interior. But the surface can be scratched and the
scratches become enhanced by this very color difference. However, in the
long run, the plank fades to a uniform, gray color.
Comfort, elegance and living space make a
deck one of the best home improvement investments you can make.
According to the annual Remodeling magazine "Cost vs. Value Report,"
you'll get back nearly 75 percent of what you pay for a deck if you sell
your home within the first year after the deck is built. That investment
can vary widely, from around $15 per square foot installed for
pressure-treated Southern yellow pine decks to more than $30 per square
foot for cedar and redwood. Building it yourself? Depending on materials
and the intricacy of your design, figure on about $1.50 to $5 per square
foot for the planks and another $4 to $6 per square foot for joists and
posts.
An array of new decking options can make all that effort and expense
last longer and cut down on maintenance during its life. While
pressure-treated "green" Southern yellow pine still goes into 80 percent
of all decks, there are several alternatives even within the
pressure-treated (PT) lumber category. Other choices include exotic
hardwoods and a variety of nonwood products, such as engineered vinyl
systems and plastic-wood composites. And there are the different shapes,
widths, grades and treatments within categories. This guide to the major
decking materials includes pros, cons, grades, costs and availability
for each, along with some advice to make your investment last.
Pressure-Treated Wood
Advantages: Economical and plentiful, pressure-treated wood lasts
around 15 years when properly treated with a water repellent every two
years.
Disadvantages: The dominant PT species, Southern yellow pine,
checks and splinters as it dries. Left untreated, some PT turns muddy
gray (use a semitransparent stain or clear sealer). In addition, PT
preservative chemical residue may cause health problems. If you're doing
the building, wear a dust mask. And be sure to wash yourself carefully
and your clothing separately after working.
Availability: PT is widely available at lumberyards and home
centers. Most is sold in 5/4x6 boards and all 2-by dimensions.
Recommendations: Southern yellow pine is treated with
chromated copper arsenate (CCA), an insecticide-preservative. Use 0.40
(chemical density) CCA for decks and joists and 0.60 for posts. Consider
PT that's factory-treated with water repellent; Hickson's Thompsonized
PT and Osmose's Armor All PT are two examples. You can also get
prestained PT, such as Osmose's Woodshades, which comes in three colors.
Two less-toxic alternatives are ACQ Preserve with UltraWood water
repellent and Kodiak lumber. Both are preserved without arsenate, and
are backed for life against termites, decay and fungi. Quality grades
run in descending order. Choose grade No. 1 for railings and benches,
and grade No. 2 or BTR for decking. Also check the grade stamp for the
letters KDAT (kiln-dried after treatment), which is more dimensionally
stable than air-dried wood. And use hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum or
stainless-steel (ring-shanked) nails, screws and other fasteners.
Cost: About $10 to $16 per square foot installed. CCA PT
decking itself costs around $1.50 to $2 per square foot; add 50 cents
per square foot for Kodiak and UltraWood.
Redwood and Cedar
Advantages: Redwood and cedar heartwood has glowing color,
handsome straight grains and natural resistance to rot and insects.
Boards are easy to cut and can be left untreated to weather naturally.
Life span is easily more than 20 years.
Disadvantages: Both are expensive. Redwood sapwood - the newer
wood closer to the bark - rots when exposed for sustained periods to
moisture. Cedar sapwood breaks down quickly in moist conditions.
Availability: Redwood and cedar are sold in all standard
dimensions. Cedar 5/4x6-in. deck boards are easy to find. Redwood can
take a few days for special orders.
Recommendations: For redwood, use kiln-dried deck heart or
deck common. Clear heart, clear, B heart and B grade redwood are fine
for lower budgets. For cedar, clear all heart is the premium choice.
Good, lower-cost alternatives include appearance grade and, for dry
areas, No. 1 select tight knot (STK). Use hot-dipped galvanized,
aluminum or stainless-steel (ring-shanked) nails, screws and other
fasteners.
Cost: About $18 to $22 per square foot installed for both
woods, not including substructure. Decking itself costs about $5 per
square foot; the higher grades of redwood cost much more.
Tropical Hardwood
Advantages: Now more widely available, ipe (E-pay) is a durable
teaklike tropical hardwood sold as Ironwood or Pau Lope (pow LOW-pay).
Twice as strong as oak, ipe is more durable than redwood and cedar. It
has a life expectancy of 40 years or more, and is resistant to insects
and decay. Ironwood is backed by a 25-year transferable warranty, while
Pau Lope comes with a 20-year limited warranty. All grades are virtually
knot-free, and tight grain patterns make this wood impervious to water.
Another tropical hardwood option is cambara; it's less durable than ipe
but also knot-free.
Disadvantages: Expensive. Requires predrilling for fasteners.
Availability: Ipe is available in most standard dimensions, including
5/456 in. for deck tops and 2-by dimensions for handrails, joists and
posts. But delivery can take up to three weeks.
Recommendations: Treat it just once with a UV-blocking sealer
like Penofin ($30 per gallon) and let it weather. Use stainless-steel
screws.
Cost: About $22 per square foot installed, not including
substructure. Decking itself costs about $5 per square foot. Cambara
decking costs $3 per square foot.
Plastic-Wood Composites
Advantages: Virtually indestructible, plastic-wood composites
blend 30 to 50 percent recycled plastic with wood fibers for skid
resistance and stainability. Composite lumber is low-maintenance, and
resists rot, insects and UV rays. It's also splinter-free and easy to
work with. Deck screws sink in and disappear. Trex, TimberTech and
DuraWood EX come with 10-year warranties, while ChoiceDek and DuraWood
PE are backed for 20 years.
Disadvantages: Some composite lumber has a plastic appearance,
and some colors fade over time. During construction, sawdust and
shavings must be collected in a drop cloth because they aren't
biodegradable. What's more, not all composite lumber can span
traditional 16- or 24-in. joist spacing; narrower joist layout may be
needed, boosting cost. Some building codes don't allow composite lumber;
check with your building department before ordering.
Availability: Trex, approved by most building codes, is sold
in most standard dimensions, including 5/4x6 in. and 2-by. ChoiceDek and
SmartDeck come in 5/4x6 in. and 2x6 in. TimberTech is 1 1/2x6 and 1
1/2x8 in.
Recommendations: Typical choices are plain deck boards, like
Trex and ChoiceDek, and shaped tongue-and-groove deck boards, like
TimberTech (which you install) and SmartDeck's DuraWood EX (installed by
a certified contractor). SmartDeck also offers a 100 percent plastic
product, called DuraWood PE. If you're wiring the deck, consider
ChoiceDek and DuraWood; both of these deck-and-rail systems are formed
to allow running wires within posts or deck boards. Composite lumber
weathers to a light gray and can be painted or stained, though
protective sealers aren't required. Use galvanized screws.
Cost: About $20 per square foot installed for DuraWood EX, not
including substructure. Most composite lumber by itself costs around $3
per square foot.
Vinyl Deck Systems
Advantages: Installed by you or a contractor, vinyl deck systems
typically include deck boards, rails, spindles and fascia. They create a
low-maintenance deck that needs no sealers or finishes and is free of
splinters and cracks. Planks have good spanning ability and resist UV
rays if treated at the factory. Fasteners can be completely hidden once
planks are installed. The three major manufacturers of vinyl deck
systems—Kroy, DreamDeck and EZ Deck—offer limited lifetime warranties.
Disadvantages: These systems are relatively expensive. Vinyl
can fade and get brittle with age unless specially treated at the
factory, and all vinyl eventually loses its gloss. Sawdust isn't
biodegradable, so it must be collected in a drop cloth.
Availability: Kroy deck planks come 8 in. wide, DreamDeck
planks are 5 1/2 in. wide and EZ Deck planks are 4 or 6 in. wide. These
systems must often be ordered through distributors.
Recommendations: Choose skid-resistant planks, available in a
variety of colors from Kroy, DreamDeck and EZ Deck. Also opt for
color-fast, no-fade treatments like the one used by EZ Deck. Planks can
be cut to length with a circular saw; plank ends are covered with vinyl
caps. Proprietary strip systems are screwed to joists with galvanized or
stainless-steel screws, then planks snap into place.
Cost: About $13 per square foot installed for Kroy, $18 for
DreamDeck and $22 for EZ Deck, not including substructure. Decking
itself costs about $7 to $12 per square foot.
www. choicedek.com
Chemical Specialties
200 E. Woodlawn Rd., Dept. TH798, Charlotte, NC, 28217
800/421-8661
www. chemspec.com
Georgia-Pacific Corp
900 S.W. 5th Ave.
Portland, OR 97204-1255
503/222-5561
www.gapac.com
Greenheart-Durawoods Inc.
665 Rte. 9 N, Box 279
Bayville, NJ 08721
800/783-7220
Hickson Inc.
1955 Lake Park Dr., Suite 250
Smyrna, GA 30080
770/801-6600
www.hickson.com
Kodiak Inc.
Box 9158, 416 E. Brooks Rd.
Memphis, TN 38109
800/556-3425
www.kodiakwood.com
Kroy Decks
522 W. 26th St., Box 309
York, NE 68467
800/933-5769
www.kroybp.com
Osmose Wood Preserving
1016 Everee Inn Rd., Box O
Griffin GA 30224-0249
770/228-8434
www.osmose.com
Performance Coatings
360 Lake Mendocino Dr.
Ukiah, CA 95482
800/736-6346
www.penofin.com
SmartDeck
2600 W. Roosevelt Rd.
Chicago, IL 60608
888/733-2546
www.smartdeck.com
Thermal Industries
301 Brushton Ave.
Pittsburgh, PA 15221
800/245-1540
www.thermalindustries.com
Timber Holdings Ltd.
2400 West
Cornell, Milwaukee, WI 53209
414/445-8989
TimberTech, Crane Plastics
Box 1047
Columbus, OH 43216-1047
800/307-7780
www.timbertech.com
Trex Company
20 S. Cameron St.
Winchester, VA 22601-9917
800/289-8739
www.trex.com
Western Red Cedar Lumber Association
1100-555 Burrard St.
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada V7X 1S7
604/684-0266
www.wrcla.org
ZCL Composites Inc
2305 8th St.
Nisku, Alberta, Canada, T9E7Z3
800/990-3099
www.ezdeck.com
Warranty and Care
CARE & CLEANING
All exterior building materials require
cleaning. Periodic cleaning of Trex® Decking & Railing will maintain the
beauty of a Trex deck.
Problem Solution
Dirt and Debris
* Clean deck to remove dirt and debris.
Soap, hot water and a stiff bristle brush are all that is needed.
Chalk Markings
* All colored chalk lines are permanent
except white. We suggest using white chalk or baby powder. Scrubbing the
area with hot soapy water with bleach may dislodge some of the chalk.
Visible Mill Markings
* The mill markings on the side of Trex
decking boards are required by building codes. With careful
installation, most mill markings can be hidden. Visible mill markings
can be lightened with acetone.
Water Spots/Leaf Staining/Wood Tannins
* Tannin leaching occurs in Trex and all
wood based products naturally. Allow for at least 12 weeks of normal
weathering. This process may be hastened through the use of a product
containing oxalic or phosphoric acid.
Pigment Staining
* During the weathering process, a small
amount of surface pigmentation may wash off of the Trex surface, which
may discolor neighboring surfaces. Remove with common rust cleaner.
Ice and Snow
* Calcium chloride or rock salt, available
in many home centers, will melt ice on Trex decking. Rinse off when
first practical.
Rust Stains, Ground-In Dirt and Grime
* Use a cleaning product containing oxalic
or phosphoric acid base to lighten or remove the rust or dirt. Product
may need to sit on stain 10-15 minutes.
Oil and Grease Stains
* Scrub in a household-degreasing agent as
soon as the stain occurs. Rinse with hot water. For more severe stains
call 1-800-BUY-TREX.
Berries and Wine Stains
* Mix bleach into hot water according to
the bleach-packaging label. Scrub the stain lightly and rinse
thoroughly. The stain may not disappear entirely.
Ink Stains
* Inks may be permanent. However, the stain
may be lightened by scrubbing with hot soapy water. Rinse thoroughly.
Mold
* Use conventional deck washes or cleaners
that contain sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and detergent (refer to Mold
Technical Bulletin).
* Treat with PSC Composite DeckAfterKlean (www.psc-solutions.com)
or Anti-Growth (www.anti-growth.com) to delay regrowth.
* Periodic cleaning of your deck, even if
it appears clean, is important to prevent the build-up of pollen/debris
that can cause mold.
Pressure Washer
* Trex does not recommend the use of a
pressure washer. The use of a pressure washer with a greater than 1,500
PSI and/or applied closer than 10" from the deck surface could damage
the decking surface and result in a loss of warranty coverage.
Sanding
* Trex does not recommend sanding. Sanding
will change the appearance of the surface of Trex material.
Available at thousands of lumberyards nationwide
X X
My name is Mike Danzilio and I love decks, I wrote
this article about 5 years ago and revise it every year. After 25 years
of and taking down older decks and building new ones, I have observed
almost every deck product and method used to construct decks.
I will rate these decking products using
a scale from 1 to 10: 1 being the lowest and 10 being the highest. The
factors I’ve included are a,The cost of the decking, railing and trim.
b, The required maintenance. c,The durability. d, It's warranty. e, The
product integrity. f, The ability to have the entire deck built out of
the same material (all the parts that are visible) and g, The overall
look of the deck.
As a deck distributor, builder and retailer, I
offer the public the best products at the best price. This concept works
because I believe in the products that I sell. I don’t see any reason
to sell a product that has inherent problems just because it costs
less. The minor difference in price in relation to the benefits over
time is worth it.. For instance, when we purchase a car, we don’t buy
the cheapest thing on 4 wheels. We look at characteristics such as
safety, gas mileage, size, comfort and other amenities. We also
consider that we will only have this vehicle about 4 years. As an
independent plastic lumber retailer, I can sell virtually any decking
product that is currently available. All things considered, I have
chosen two products to carry, Trex and Tandeck. We sell Trex because it
is the #1 selling decking product on the market today. More Trex is sold
than all alternative decking products combined. Trex has great marketing
and brand recognition, it is the envy of all decking products. Having
said that, I feel that there is a product that offers greater value. The
Tandeck Decking System is head and shoulders above the rest.
If you are in the market for a deck or dock, look
at all of the alternatives and consider every thing. If you plan to
own your home for more three years or just want the best looking deck
for the best value, Tandeck has the right product for you. In recent
years home owners have come to realize that wood decks will be cheaper
than a wood composite or a plastic deck. If you just want a deck and
don’t care what it looks like than build a wood deck and let it crack,
check and enjoy the splinters. If you desire to have a beautiful deck
and don’t what to spend any money on it after it is done, then the
Tandeck product will be right for you. The maintenance of the wood deck
plus the initial cost will cost more than the difference between the up
front cost of the plastic deck.
The next question you will have is what to buy?
One way is to look at the history and the make-up of the product. If you
see a product like Correct Deck that has a “new and improved” product
every year than you know that they have had problems and they had to
change the way that they make it. I have seen products come and go, and
one thing that they have in common is that they use wood as a filler. We
know that a chain is as strong as its weakest link and the weak link in
all wood composites is the wood. Unfortunately some products use Poly
Vinyl Chloride (PVC), polystyrene (PS), or polypropylene (PP). These
plastics have some characteristics that are better than polyethylene
(PE), like stiffness, but they are all inferior to PE when we talk
colorfastness and stain resistance. We will speak about these individual
products separately further on in this paper. Polyethylene, the plastic
in Tandeck, is very durable, colorfast and resistant to chemical
staining. The price of PE has risen over recent years for a few reasons.
The price of oil and natural gas is one, and the most important is that
the world has realized that polyethylene is a better plastic to put
outside in the harsh elements. PVC and PS decking look great when they
are new, PS decking (EON) looks better than PE decking when it is new,
but in one year the PE decking will still look the same and the PVC and
PS decking will have lost that nice shine. I would think that you will
want your deck to look good in five years and not look good for just a
few months.
A six inch piece of most decking looks pretty good,
the finished product is what you want to see. At No Maintenance Decking
and Trim we have about 1500 square feet of decks set up outside, yes,
outside, so you can see what they look like. Every year we go to the
Deck Expo, we see beautiful decks done with great carpentry skills, the
problem is that if you put these decks outside for 6 months they will
look terrible! We welcome everyone to come and look at the set of stairs
we have set up at our outside show room and challenge them to show me a
better looking decking product.
DECK BUILDING PRODUCTS;
Wood
Until recently, wood has been the only product used
to build a deck. There are many types of wood and I will try to cover
most of them. The first decks that I encountered were originally built
out of whatever was left over from the frame of the house, usually
Douglas fir or spruce. These decks were stained or painted every 1 or 2
years and lasted anywhere from 7—15 years depending on the care given
and its proximity to the sun. Replacement decks were built to look
better and last longer. In the early eighties we began to use Pressure
Treated wood (wood treated with the chemical Copper Chromium Arsenic,
which was banned by the EPA for residential use in January, 2004). We
used it only on the frame and on high-end homes because it’s cost was
about three times that of conventional wood. As the cost came down and
more profiles were introduced, we began using it for the entire deck.
Pressure Treated Wood
Pressure Treated ACQ (Ammonia-cal Copper
Quaternary, CCA’S replacement) is acceptable if you are looking for
“just a deck”. If you don’t care what the deck looks like, this will
be the best deck for the money. Water will not damage it but if the
deck is not stained with a solid body stain, the sun will dry it out
until the areas exposed to the sun disintegrates. If you have a
pressure treated deck, you may be able to make it look better by
painting, pressure washing, sanding, caulking & staining with a solid
body stain. This will have to be done every year, but it will at least
look good. Building the frame out of Pressure Treated is fine, because
it is not in the direct sunlight. ACQ has great strength but only time
will tell for the ACQ treatment process.
Rating 3—If you plan to have the deck more than 3
years, buy a different product.
Cedar, Mahogany & Redwood
These decks always look great for the first couple
of months after they‘re built, but before long they will require some
kind of maintenance. Depending on how you take care of the deck and the
frequency of maintenance will directly relate to it’s looks and length
of life.
Cedar
Cedar is very soft and needs a lot of maintenance
but will look good for it’s short 6—10 year life. This product maybe
the most costly per year to own. Rating 3 — Looks good when it’s
installed but requires costly, annual maintenance. to extend the life of
the deck. If you have a cedar house, this deck will look great with a
clear cedar stain applied every year.
Redwood
These decks look great but will require a lot of
maintenance to keep it looking good. Redwood may have a longer life in
a dryer, western climate. I recently dismantled a 16-year old Redwood
deck. It was an ugly, dark brown but there was no rot at all! Yearly
staining with a solid body stain would have extended the life of this
deck at least another 10+ years. The owners had vinyl siding applied
to their house and opted for a deck that matched the house.
Rating 5 — If you can find an entire deck package
it will look good. Requires a lot of maintenance
Mahogany/Vertical Grain Fir
Deck grade mahogany from Malaysia and Indonesia or
vertical grain Fir from the United States is harder than Cedar and will
last up to 20 years. For homes that are in the woods or that have a
wood motif, this may be a great product for this look. Costly annual
maintenance is the down side.
Rating 5 —Lasts longer than Cedar.
Teak and other Hardwoods
There are many varieties of South American
Hardwood. Teak (Ipe, Ironwood ect....) being the best known for its
use with furniture and ship decks. These decks have a very high upfront
cost and require maintenance, they look great and last a very long
time. This decking may be reasonably priced (3 times that of treated).
I visited a distributor of alternative decking in Florida, I looked at
all of the different products that they had displayed outside. They had
a few types of hardwood displayed nicely in the sun, they were there for
2½ years and looked terrible, every product was cracked terribly. This
changed my outlook on hardwoods. Remember that it was in the hot Florida
sun, but the look was very bad, I was shocked! In the July/August 2005
Deck Builder Magazine I read an article about a marina in South
Carolina they were proudly showing off their dock, it looked great! The
further I read they said that they will be treating it with Penofin four
times a year. When the dock is new they will spend the money to keep it
looking good, but in a few years they will stop and the dock will start
to look bad. The finishing components (rails, fascia & trim) will be
very expensive.
Rating 8— Highest cost of all the deck products
tested and will need costly maintenance.
In the late eighties, we noticed that Pressure
Treated wood wasn’t susceptible to water damage but it would dry out and
crack leaving the worst splinters that any bare–footed person could
imagine. Pressure Treated wood, due to it’s wet treating process,
swelled up in both it’s length and width so it would shrink and crack
when it dried. In my legal contracts with homeowners, I flatly stated
that to keep the deck looking good, a solid body stain would need to be
applied. In ten short years we were back to the maintenance game! In
the early nineties, we were introduced to plastics used as decking. As
with any new product, people were interested and I built quite a few
decks with a composite called Trex. Soon after I was asked to be a
consultant to a new company on Long Island that sold 100% recycled
plastic decking. I could see that we had two similar yet very
different schools of thought:
Wood Composites
When wood breaks down after a few years, the
decking may become rough and flaky. The plastic will stay in place but
the wood will disintegrate. Wood is a cellulose material that absorbs
water & bacteria. The bacteria feeds on the cellulose to produce the
mold that you see on many of the popular composite deck products. The
wood doesn’t hold the color for very long, so fading is also an issue.
Another issue with wood composites that’s not widely known is that you
should not use these wood composites under 18” above the ground unless
your deck it is fully ventilated. You will find this written in very
small print in the way back of the product information guide. The wood
will absorb moisture and puff up like oatmeal and water. Other composite
deck products that possess different characteristics, will have their
own section later on.
Trex
Far and away, the best selling and most widely
known plastic decking product on the market. The marketing and brand
recognition is second to none. They have made slight improvements to the
core decking, along with adding a new high end line called Brizilia to
their 2 other price point decking line. The Trex railing looks good and
has great strength, their Trex Artisan line of railing is a winner that
was well thought out and tested before it was introduced in 2005. We
must remember that it is what it is. The Trex decking will fade, it will
stain, it will mold from the inside out because of the wood in the mix.
In some cases you may like the faded color, the Winchester Grey looks
good when it is new and after it fades, it still looks good . Here are
some of the issues that Trex has 1. Fades immediately and not
evenly. Areas exposed to the sun will fade at a different rate than
those in the shade. 2. Spills (juice, coffee, barbeque sauce, wine and
even pool water) will stain it permanently. If you have children, you
know how easily that will happen. Think of a light colored carpet
that you can never clean. 3. Trex now has a 25 year warranty. They
don’t warranty that it will look good though. 4. Trex is not made to
accommodate a hidden fastening system, it must be nailed or screwed
through the top of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening
of the decking but it’s a lot of work. 5. Mold and Mildew is a issue, I
have been told that it will come off, cleaners and your time is not
free. All in all, Trex has come a long way, some people like buying a
well known, well established product, this is fully understandable. I
like the new Trex, but after 25 years in the decking business I think
that the 36 cent extra a square foot difference in price as compared to
the Tandeck, the Tandeck is well worth paying the extra money. It takes
a lot to change my mind, Trex did it! The Artisan Railing is impressive,
not only in it’s design but it looks great also! Rating 7— it has come
a long way
Evergrain
This is a very high quality, composite decking.
People love the wood grain. If I was told that I had to pick a wood
composite deck for my house, This maybe the one. It is molded not
extruded, they must put a coating in the mold before pouring in the mix.
I have had some Evergrain on a display deck for a few years and it looks
very good
1. It is more stain resistant than other wood
composites.
2. Evergrain has a ½ X 11¾ wide skirt board to use
as trim. This is a big plus, the board can be used around the frame as
fascia, and for stair risers also to cover the stair stringers.
3. The wood grain may show wear in high traffic
areas after a few years.
4. They along with everyone else has raised their
very limited warranty to 25 years.
5. Evergrain must be nailed or screwed through the
top of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening of the
decking, but it’s a lot of work.
6. The railing system is not visually appealing.
Rating 7—It holds its color and is stain and mold
resistant.
Timbertech
They have a complete decking system which includes
railing, fascia for skirt board. This product fades faster than any
product I have ever seen. Their adds show a beautiful deck, this maybe
one of the most beautiful decks that I have ever seen. they have been
using this photo for 2 years I would love to see this deck now! I don’t
think that they would be so proud to show it.
1. Looks good when it is new.
2. Timbertech has a fair trim and rail system.
3. They along with everyone else has raised their
very limited warranty to 25 years. They do not warranty it to look good.
4. They are setting a record for denied warranty
claims.
Rating 5 —The fading is the down side.
Veranda
Veranda are composite decking sold at Home Depot.
They introduced a new wood grain finish. It is a good cheep wood
composite decking with only one color in stock. If you can’t tell the
difference in looks between Veranda and a premium deck board, than by
all means, buy it!
1. They only offer 8’, 12’ and 16’ lengths.
2. The 15-year warranty bothers me on a product
that costs this much.
3. Veranda must be nailed or screwed thru the top
of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening but it’s a lot
of work..
4. The railing system is not very good.
Rating 5—It costs less than all other wood
composites and it doesn’t splinter. Nexwood
This product is out of business, I have been
telling people for years that wood, plastic and the outdoors don’t mix.
Some companies can’t pay all of the warranty claims. While I was writing
the update of this paper, I did a Google search for Nexwood, It was
gone.
Rating 0
Cross Timbers Decking
Cross Timbers composite decking is another new
player in the composite decking industry. They have taken all of the
popularity of a wood grain finish (similar to Evergrain) and have added
a concealed fastening system while using a higher quality of plastic and
wood (polypropylene and oak).
1. Popular wood grain look.
2. Concealed fastening system yielding a clean
look.
3. Polypropylene is not color fast
4. Matching railing system.
5. Fades almost as fast as Timbertech
Rating 4 Fades and stains too easily.
EON
Called “ The BEST in Alternative Decking”
according to them. This product is made from polystyrene, it’s not a
good plastic for outdoor use. This is a great looking product when it is
new, their mahogany color decking is beautiful, but in a few months it
will look very dull.
1. Polystyrene is stiffer than polyethylene, but
is not color fast like polyethylene, it will fade quickly.
2. It has a hollow feel when you walk on it.
3. Very, expensive.
4. Stains very easily. On the eon web site they
have a laundry list of products not to clean it with. It also mentions
that pool chemicals will stain it.
Rating 5 Looks great when it is new, I would think
that you might like it to look good for a few years. Correct Deck
Correct Deck claims to be a premium, higher quality, longer lasting
decking. This product makes me shake my head and say why? They change
the formula every year and say it will not do that any more. In the
April 2005 Deck Builder magazine I read that they put some new additive
in it that will keep it from fading and molding. I went to a local
specialty decking retailer and bought a few 16’ pieces and screwed it
down. In 5 months it was a pale pink with green mold all over it. This
is the worst product I have ever seen!. Of course they have a new
formula for 2006, it looks terrible.
1. It has a 25-year warranty.
2. Concealed fastening system yielding a clean
look.
3. It’s finish is more of an orange peel than a
wood grain.
4. The color is not as consistent as Cross
Timbers, it looks as though The wood is not dyed the same color as the
plastic.
5. This is the worst product I have ever seen!.
Rating, -10 yes minus 10, if you get sucked into buying this product you
will buy anything! PVC Decking and Railings Procell Decking Procell
Decking is a new decking, it is made from poly vinyl chloride (PVC) and
flax which is some type of wheat. I would think that flax being similar
to wood will have similar properties.
1. The colors are very pale almost pre-faded.
2. Procell must be nailed or screwed through the
top of the deck. There are methods to conceal the fastening of the
decking, but it’s a lot of work.
3. Procell is just decking, nothing else. Their web
site calls it a decking system, just decking doesn’t make a decking
system.
4. Expensive it maybe 20% more than other premium
decking.
5. It’s too new to see what will happen in a few
years Rating, 6 if you like to look at screws it’s alright
Oasis Decking
Oasis Decking is a hollow PVC decking
1, Very Ugly
2, Not very durable, since it is hollow it isn’t
very strong. I know an installer that repairs this product, he states
that a chair leg will go right through it. To make matters worse, you
can’t take one or two pieces of decking off to make a repair, you must
start at the end and take them all off to get to the effected pieces
off. Rating, 3 its better than wood 100% Plastic Decking Products
Tandeck Decking System
This is the product that I feel is the best you can
get. There are a few minor players that make polyethylene products
besides Tangent Technologies of Aurora Illinois. Polyethylene (PE) To
show that it is so color fast that I have a piece of decking that was
made and installed in 1992, we looked at the deck in February 2006, this
deck looks so good that we are replacing it just to get that samples to
show the world that it hasn’t faded at all. I have a piece of this 13
year old decking is in my office and pieces of it will be at all
retailers that carry the product. The Tandeck decking system is so much
better than the rest! Check it out yourself! You will need to see a
completed deck of any of the composite or PVC decking systems and then
look at the Tandeck Decking system. It is obvious—whether you have
vinyl siding, brick or stucco. There is a color and style that fits.
For product information see tandeck.com.
1. Tandeck has seven non-fading colors.
Ultraviolet inhibitors are added to minimize fading which is less than1%
over 10 years.
2. Stain resistant—virtually any stain will come
off including permanent marker.
3. Not Slippery—The wood grain will grip your
shoe or bare feet. Great for pools.
4. Concealed fastening system—no ugly screws on
the top of the decking.
5. Matching rail system—Strong, great looking
rails that match the deck color.
6. A 50-year warranty
Rating 9 If there is a better product, I want to
see it.
No Maintenance Decks 2006
Timbertech is a monolithic
composite that is hollow, so its lighter than Trex. It is designed to
lock together with adjacent plank to accommodate the fasteners. The
composite material occasionally cracks along the interlock. Then you end
up with unsecured plank. Many times this is not evident until the
occurrence of high winds!
Timbertech has a new hollow plank that does not
interlock but stands alone. It is designed to be nailed or screwed from
the top just like wood. But I wouldn't trust any fasteners holding
through the 1/2-inch composite.
Louisiana-Pacific has a wood-plastic composite,
called WeatherBest.
The wood component is actually a wood flour -- wood
so finely ground it becomes a powder.
It's still 50-50 wood to plastic. It was designed
to overcome the problems with the other wood-plastic composites. In
doing so, they've introduced other problems:
One problem is the dimensionality -- it is only
1-inch thick. That just doesn't give a proper look to residential decks.
It looks undersized and, by inference, cheap.
A second problem, but more significant, is that
1-inch thick composite planking will warble in the sun from expansion.
Another is that it's surface is embossed with a
wood-grain pattern which was an attempt to make the plank look
realistic. To emphasize the wood-grain, the outer surface was made a
darker color than the interior. But the surface can be scratched and the
scratches become enhanced by this very color difference. However, in the
long run, the plank fades to a uniform, gray color.
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Most spa dealers will assist you
with delivery and installation of your portable spa.
In most cases, you just place the hot tub, fill it with a
water hose, set the controls and you’re ready to go!
However, if you are doing a more elaborate installation
or home improvement, it is good to know additional things you
can do to make a smooth installation to last worry-free for
years.
The following sections are
guidelines on how to prepare for delivery and set-up of most new
spas. Specifically covered are site selection, delivery access,
ground preparation, and electrical requirements.
Remember to carefully read your
Spa Owner’s Manual
and
Pre-Delivery Instructions
which accompanies your spa before installation projects of any
kind!
In most cities and counties,
permits will be required for the installation of electrical
circuits or the construction of exterior surfaces (decks and
gazebos). In addition, some communities have adopted residential
barrier codes that may require fencing and/or self-closing gates
on the property to prevent unsupervised access to a pool (or
spa) by children under 5 years of age. Make sure your spa is
equipped with a locking cover that meets the ASTM F1346-91
Standard for Safety Covers; if it is, you are usually exempt
from most barrier requirements. As a general practice, your
local Building Department will inform you of any applicable
barrier requirements at the time a permit is obtained for the
installation of an electrical circuit. Your Spa Dealer can
provide information on which permits may be required.
Site Selection and Preparation
IMPORTANT: Site selection and
preparation are usually the customer’s responsibility. Carefully
read these instructions and consult your authorized Spa Dealer
if you have any questions. We recommend that you download out
entire
Hot Spring Pre-Delivery Guide
for more detailed information regarding site selection,
preparation and installation.
You probably have a spot picked
out for your new spa, whether it’s indoors or outdoors, on a
patio or on
a deck. Just make sure you check
the following:
-
Always put your spa on a
structurally sound, level surface. A filled spa can weigh a
great deal. Make certain that the location you choose can
support the weight of your filled spa.
-
Don’t forget to level your spa
before filling it!
-
Locate your equipment
compartment, which houses all of the electrical components,
in a place where water will drain away from it. Allowing
water into the equipment compartment can damage the
electronics, or may result in tripping your house’s circuit
breaker.
-
Leave yourself easy access to
the circuit breakers in the subpanel (230 volt models), or
to the interrupter switch on the end of the power cord (115
volt models).
-
Never let water get into the
subpanel (230 volt models), into the interrupter switch (115
volt models), or into the electrical outlet that your spa is
plugged into. Make sure your spa comes with a protective box
or panel designed to keep out rain and water from sprinkler
systems.
-
Leave access to the equipment
compartment for periodic spa care and maintenance.
Outdoor and Patio Installation
No matter where you install your
new spa, it’s important that you have a solid foundation to
support it.
Structural damage to the spa
resulting from incorrect installation or placement on an
inadequate
foundation is usually not covered
under most spa warranties.
If you install the spa outdoors, a
reinforced concrete pad at least four inches thick recommended.
The reinforcing rod or mesh in the pad should be attached
to a bond wire.
If you place the spa on the
ground, even temporarily, place stepping stones under the
leveling areas. The stones should be at least two inches thick
and twelve inches square. Even with stones in place, the spa
will inevitably settle and become unlevel. Plus, a spa
surrounded by dirt or grass will soon be filled with dirt or
grass from users’ feet; therefore, it is important to get it
onto a solid foundation as soon as possible.
Deck Installation
To be certain your deck can
support your spa, you must know the deck’s maximum load
capacity.
Consult a qualified building
contractor or structural engineer before you place the spa on an
elevated deck or indoors. To find
the weight of your spa, ask your dealer. The weight per square
foot must not exceed the structure’s rated capacity, or serious
structural damage could result.
Indoor Installation
Be aware of some special
requirements if you place your spa indoors. Water will
accumulate around the
spa, so flooring materials must
provide a good grip when wet. Proper drainage is essential to
prevent a
build-up of water around the spa.
When building a new room for the spa, it is recommended that a
floor
drain be installed. The humidity
will naturally increase with the spa installed. Water may get
into woodwork and produce dry rot, mildew, or other problems.
Check for airborne moisture’s effects on exposed wood, paper,
etc. in the room. To minimize these effects, it is best to
provide plenty of ventilation to the spa area.
An architect can help to determine
if more ventilation must be installed.
A
Hot
Spring® Spas Dealer can help you with local information
such as zoning regulations and building
Codes, as well as other
pre-delivery technical questions.
Ground Preparation
If you are purchasing a deck
package or a gazebo with your spa, a solid foundation becomes
mandatory. Placing them on any surface other than a single level
pad could create problems with their
installation.
It is your responsibility to
provide a suitable, level foundation for your spa. Keep in mind
that most delivery crews are not equipped to level and prepare
spa sites. If you are interested in having a concrete slab,
brick surface, or wood deck installed, your Spa Dealer should be
able to suggest a qualified, licensed contractor.
Download the entire
Hot Spring Spas Pre-Delivery Guide (Acrobat PDF).
{link to site,
(http://www.hotspring.com/SpaNotes/backyard_pre-deliv.html)}
|
Spas & Hot Tubs
Question:
"What special considerations should I make for a hot tub
or spa?"
Answer:
Water weighs 62 lbs per cubic foot, so if you plan on
setting your spa on top of your deck, when it's full of
water and people, it's the equivalent of an elephant on your
deck. It needs proper support. You will definitely want to
hire the services of an architect, engineer, or deck design
firm to help you with the additional support requirements
for a spa. Your local Plan Review should also be able to
help. (Your taxes pay their salaries remember. They can
help you by working out some calculations to properly
support your spa.) On the other hand, you may want to rest
your hot tub on a concrete pad and build the deck around
it. Here's where things also get tricky because you must
insure that the deck is properly supported. And don't make
the mistake of sinking the spa flush with the top of the
deck. That first step into the spa may be so much lower
than the deck surface that folks fall into the spa! (Which
may be funny until it's your wife.)
Cut Outs
Question:
"How about cutting out the deck to go around things like
trees?"
Answer:
It looks great. Just make sure that you take into account
such things as how much the tree will grow and how much it
will sway in a typical high wind. Don't frame and deck too
closely. Leave slightly less than 4" on all sides. You
will want to make a kind of collar that fits around the tree
and "floats" on the deck. Such a collar can prevent someone
from stepping into the gap while allowing the tree to sway.
Also a bench around the tree (planter box?) is a
possibility. Check with a local Building Inspector or your
Plan Review to determine if their are safety issues they
will want addressed.
Railings
Question:
"What special considerations should I be aware of for my
deck's handrail?"
Answer:
Check with your local Plan Review to determine at what
elevation from the ground your deck actually is required to
have a handrail. Typically it's 30", but localities may
differ. But even if you are not required to have a
handrail, if you choose to install one, it must meet code
requirements. That means the openings must be only so large
(code changes periodically, but as of this writing most
localities typically require that a 4" diameter sphere
cannot pass through it) and the main support posts (usually
4x4s) cannot be too far apart (5' is typically the max).
The handrail must be of sufficient strength to sustain both
lateral and vertical forces specified by code. Here again
you will need an architect, engineer, deck designer, or
local Plan Reviewer to help you with what handrail designs
meet or exceed code requirements.
Stairs
Question:
"What do I need to know about designing stairs?"
Answer:
If your deck will be high (say 6' or higher), you will want
to consider installing an intermediate landing for safety
and aesthetic reasons. Step and stair construction is very
carefully regulated by code requirements, so you will want
to work closely with your local Plan Review in order to
build to their specifications. As of this writing, code
typically calls for stairs to be no less than 36" wide (from
inside of handrail to inside of handrail), have a banister
(grab rail) down at least one side, have riser and treads
limited in dimensions, a 1/2" to 1" stair nosing, risers
enclosed, 2x12 stair carriages appropriately spaced (18" in
some localities). Again, work with an architect, engineer,
deck designer or your local Plan Review to obtain a detail
drawing of a typical set of stairs. As with all of your
deck, you will want to build stairs to meet or exceed code
requirements.
Basic Components
Question:
"What are the basic components of a typical deck?"
A Deck frame consists of 4x4 wood verticle support
posts on buried concrete footings.
Answer:
A deck is normally composed of vertical support posts that
rest on buried concrete footings. Code typically limits how
far apart these support posts can be spaced. Each post
supports beams (girders) that normally run parallel to the
house. Again, code dictates how far apart beams can be from
each other otherwise you will over span your floor joists.
The beams support floor joists that normally run
perpendicular to the beams. Normally floor joists are
spaced 16" OC (on center meaning center to center) but may
need to be spaced closer under certain circumstances (ex- if
using certain composite decking diagonally). Sometimes
floor joists can be spaced further apart. Joists distribute
the weight of the deck boards above which are run either
perpendicular to the floor joists or on a 45 degree angle.
The last deck component is the railing which is normally 36"
to 42" high. Code will dictate the materials, design and
spacing for railings and for all components of a deck.
Always submit all Building Plans to your local Plan Review
before building.
Building Materials
Question:
"What kinds of deck building materials are commonly
acceptable?"
Answer:
There are more and more materials being used today, but take
into consideration whether or not the materials are
resistant to decay and insects (CCA pressure treated wood is
as also is cedar and redwood... but not as much). What are
the effects of water, sun, heat and cold? Some composites
and plastics do better than wood in this area... but some
composites "creep" with heat (meaning the deck boards
actually sag between the joists). Some plastics are very
user unfriendly to install whereas many composites cut,
nail, and screw like wood. Wood (any kind of wood) left
exposed to the elements will turn gray unless you apply an
excellent sealer. But sealers are expensive and
must be periodically re-applied. There are no easy
answers... but there is a simple answer: Do your
homework. Read, study and talk to the experts.
Costs to Contract
Question:
"If I contract a deck out, how much should I expect to
pay?"
Answer:
Naturally the prices will vary, but a fair price range
currently is from $18-$25 per square foot for a turnkey
standard pressure treated deck. Turnkey means they provide
labor, materials, building permit and you don't lift a
finger. You can find deck companies that will charge less
currently, but be careful. Sometimes a home improvement
company falls into the trap of thinking that they can lower
their prices to where they get a lot of business... but wind
up so busy and making so little on each deck that they
become frustrated and go out of business... leaving you to
deal with any future problems.
Getting Started
Question:
"OK, but how do I get started?"
Answer:
You will want to make a sketch on 1/4" graph paper. Splurge
and buy a pad of the 11x17 paper. Draw your house wall to
scale (overhead view... like a blueprint). Draw in the
windows and doors to scale (accurately placed on the
drawing). Include such things as a heat pump, chimney, bay
window, hose bibb, dryer vent... anything that may impact
the deck (including trees or even a septic system). Include
an elevation measurement from the ground to 4" below the
door threshold. If you know where you will want your stairs
to go, make an effort to determine how high it will be from
the ground at that point to 4" below the door threshold. A
line level and length of string works great for this
measurement and costs very little. (That information will
be needed to calculate the number of stairs) If your lot
lines are close, include them on this drawing so you can
prevent the deck from encroaching into your local zoning
setbacks. Now that you have your critical house and terrain
information drawn to scale, go for it! Based upon the
information you provided in the above, start drawing your
dream deck! I'll bet your next question will be "what
materials do I need to get started?"
·
Alan and Sharon Sain integrated a deck into
their landscaping for outdoor entertaining, dining and
relaxing (figure A). Since they wanted to preserve as
many of the large trees on the property as possible, Alan
and Sharon were faced with a very physical obstacle when
planning their deck -- specifically a very tall tree. Their
solution: build the deck around the tree (figure B),
as well as a trellis above with the tree growing right up
through it.


Figure A





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